Exploring the Bone Caves of Inchnadamph
Imogen illuminates this popular destination on the NC500
For anyone who has spent time in caves knows, there’s a unique magic spell that is cast upon you as soon as you step into the entrance which draws you deeper into their mystery. This is a world where light is a rare commodity, one you have to take with you and guard with care. A place where silence feels alive, and where time seems to fold in on itself.
I’ve been lucky enough to explore caves in many corners of the world, from vast networks in New Zealand to ancient and well decorated caverns in Southeast Asia. Yet, standing at the entrance to the Bone Caves of Inchnadamph, I feel no less of a pull—a sense of wonder at what secrets lie beyond in the darkness.
A Silent Witness to History
Inchnadamph, stands out in the landscape as different to other parts of Highland. It has a rugged limestone cliffs, and is one of the rare deposits of limestone in Scotland. As such is is also home to several caves, but none quite as renowned as the Bone Caves. These caves, carved by time and water, have held their secrets for millennia.
The walk to the Bone Caves is as much a journey through the landscape as it is through time. Beginning from the car park just south of Inchnadamph, the path leads you alongside the Allt nan Uamh river. It’s a relatively gentle ascent, winding through heather and bracken, with the distant peaks of Ben More Assynt and Conival watching over you. The air here is crisp, and if you're lucky, you might spot red deer or even a golden eagle soaring high above.
The closer you get to the caves, the more the land begins to feel ancient. As the path steepens towards the cave entrances, you can't help but sense the weight of history, both geological and biological.
Discovered and excavated by geologists Benjamin Peach and John Horne in the 19th century, the caves revealed something extraordinary: the remains of animals that once roamed this now-tamed wilderness. Reindeer antlers, along with the bones of Arctic foxes, badger, northern vole and even a polar bear (or brown bear - this point is hotly disputed by some), were found here, remnants of a cold and unforgiving landscape at the end of the last Ice Age, 18,000 years ago.
As a frequent visitor here, when I stand inside the cool dark mouth of Reindeer cave, I often imagine what it must have been like for these creatures to seek shelter here, the biting wind outside, the safety and stillness within. The land outside is believed to have been their mating grounds. These caves were silent witnesses to their lives, just as they are now to the footsteps of curious visitors like me and the many that stop to explore whilst travelling on the NC500.
The Geology Beneath Our Feet
One of the most captivating features of the Bone Caves is their connection to the broader geological story of the region. Carved into limestone, they form part of an intricate network of caverns and tunnels. Through layers of glacial mud and infill, it is thought they may link to Claonite, Scotland's longest cave system—a tantalising thought for those intrigued by the hidden world beneath our feet. Claonite is a remarkable system, with its flood-prone passages and boulder-choked entrance - it currently remains accessible only to the most skilled and adventurous cavers. Another entrance to this cave was dug out by enthusiasts over the course of 20 long years connecting in 2007, and is now a 35m entrance pitch (Rana Hole).
Just a short distance away, in the Traligill Valley, lie the Traligill Caves, another impressive network of limestone caverns - the mouth of one contains an impressive waterfall sink. The region is full of surprises—some visible, some hidden and some yet to be discovered by man.
Though these caves have stood for thousands of years, they are still fragile . Today, they are a SSSI protected sites, and we, as visitors, must tread lightly.
Peach and Horne’s excavation work revealed much about Scotland’s prehistoric landscape and it’s vital to preserve what we can for future generations. As you explore, remember to leave no trace, allowing these caves to continue their silent existence, holding onto their mysteries a little longer and never go further into caves without an experienced guide and appropriate equipment.
Andy Summers and I were so captivated by the Bone Caves that we decided to make a short inerpretation film about them. It was an great experience to bring their story to life and share it with others.
If you're curious to explore these caves yourself, the ranger service runs guided walks throughout the warmer months of the year. These walks are a fantastic opportunity to delve into the history, geology, and natural wonder of the caves, all while being guided by our ranger team who know the land intimately.
Imogen Furlong, the High Life Highland Countryside Ranger Manager, is known for her enthusiasm, organisation, and drive. Her deep passion for the Scottish Highlands' wildlife and extensive experience in outdoor education and recreation management have been central to this role. Imogen is a practical and collaborative project manager, empowering her teams to work effectively in communities and contribute to local conservation efforts.
Thanks for sharing, I love reading about the fauna that were roaming Britain in the Pleistocene. You should check out the Missing Lynx, by Ross Barnett.
Thanks Andy and Imogen - we've visited the caves several times, and always loved the growing silence as you get deeper into the valley. Speculating about their function is fun - ceremonial, residential, seasonal....? And that is one impressive polar bear skull!